![]() More than fifty years after the last 8N rolled off the assembly line, these tractors are still incredibly popular. I thought in my case, that based on some other things I have found on this particular tractor, that it had at some point in the past been "makaniked on by monkeys".One of the most popular tractors of all time, the Ford N-series tractor is an American icon. What puzzles me is how come there are no marks on my cover at the position indicated in the I+T f04 manual (unless I am blinder than I think I am and stupider too), and three marks on the right arm, and two on the left, and the marks are not in positions that would be consistent with swapping right for left or replacing a lift arm with one from another tractor, or with an aftermarket one. And it all works like it should:-) Maybe you will get lucky:-) In my case after straightening the control arm and the draft control rod (both of which were bent) and replacing the bushings and repairing the wear on the shaft, new follower pin and repairing the cam the lengths of the position control spring came out right at the stated value as close as I could measure. If you do that, then it would be a good idea to make a reference mark with a sharpy or something so when it is all back together and raised all the way up you can check to see if it in fact came out right:-) And if it does, stamp the heck out of it! Speculating here, but assuming that all of your parts are perfect, no slop and nothing bent, if you were to set the springs to the stated lengths and the control arm in the right position using Zane's jig or the carpenter square method, you could then position the upper lift arms so that the pin just touches the cam and the position control spring adjustment bolt contacts the control arm and that should be the "full up" position. 68." It should read "The constant draft spring should be 3.58 inches long (slightly over 3-9/I6 inches is satisfactory) as shown in fig. It says "The constant draft spring should be 3.58 inches long (slightly over 3/I6 inches is satisfactory) as shown in fig. Note that there is a typo where it gives the length of the draft control spring. If all of the parts in in good shape you may be able to get by by adjusting the springs to the lengths it says as those lengths should be the original factory settings. The images are missing, but still you may find this of some use as it does give the lengths of the springs. It gives the procedure from the operators manual, then how to check and straighten the control arm, then the quadrant adjustment from the operators manual. The site no longer exists, but it was archived by the wayback machine. ![]() ![]() There once was a web site/page that had a procedure for adjusting the position and draft control springs. The "by the book" adjustment worked for me. I replaced the bushings, welded up the badly worn shaft and ground it back to spec on the lathe, replaced the cam follower in, welded up the grove in the cam and ground it back to its original profile, and straightened the bent control arm and the bent draft control rod. Of course you know that if there is wear on the shaft, bushings, cam, follower pin, bent control arm, or any other parts in there that or bent or out of spec that the "by the book" adjustment may not work for you. I made these marks using the letter "V" from a number letter set, but you could just as easily use a cold chisel or center punch, whatever you have available to make your own distinct marks. ![]() There are a couple more marks on that arm that are in random positions, you cannot see them in this picture. That shows how far off that mark is from top of travel by the difference in my homemade marks. There is a faint line on the lift arm currently aligned with that big mark on the housing. The big mark top center of the housing is what I am guessing is the factory mark. When the two V shaped marks align the lift arms are at the top of their travel. ![]()
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